Exfoliation always seems to be a hot topic in skincare. There are so many different opinions on how, when, why, and who should exfoliate. Often the default is either not to exfoliate at all or to over-do it. Although it’s hard to generalize anything in skincare - especially exfoliating - I hope these suggestions help clear up any overwhelm on exfoliating at home!

How to Exfoliate:

Chemical exfoliants are often more gentle than manual ones (scrubs, towels, stiff brushes, etc). These most commonly appear in the form of enzymes and acids and work to liquify or digest dead skin cells. Manual exfoliants can be detrimental to your epidermis and cause tiny micro tears, sensitization, and the possibility of spreading inflammation.

When to Exfoliate:

Our skin is incredibly intelligent. About every 28 days it goes through a process called desquamation where our skin cells shed and are then replaced by new ones (also called cell turnover). For this reason I always advise to exfoliate less rather than more often. Once a week is typically ideal. When we work alongside the skin and support how it functions, it will respond better to how we’re assisting with processes like exfoliation. 

Why Exfoliate:

Exfoliating on a gentle level is still important even as our skin does so itself in a way. My goal is always to help your skin exfoliate excess dead skin cells rather than all dead skin cells. The excess cells may come from heavier, occlusive products that create build up over time, a sedentary lifestyle, or genetic factors. A proper amount of exfoliating will also help with product absorption if there is a layer of dead cells preventing products from nourishing deeper within your skin.

Should you Exfoliate?

Your skin is completely unique to you. If you’re not sure about exfoliating, reaching out to myself or a holistic esthetician in your area will set you on the right path for your skin’s health. If you are experiencing a lot of sensitivity, reactivity or extreme dryness I would proceed with a lot of caution and focus on protecting your skin before exfoliating (read this article on how to restore your skin’s barrier https://www.blumoonbeauty.com/blog/skinbarrier).

• If you currently use more than one method of exfoliation, such as multiple acid products and/or retinol/vitamin A products, try to narrow down to one method of exfoliation. In my experience as an esthetician, under-exfoliating creates less issues in the skin over time than over-exfoliating!

For an effective yet gentle at home product, I love Botnia’s Weekly Digest mixed with goat milk or coconut milk yogurt for many skin types and conditions. The enzymes become active once you mix at home, therefore giving you a fresh mask and fresh skin! If you don’t like the idea of yogurt, a hydrosol or pure, filtered water also works great. 

Have any questions about exfoliation? Let me know in the comments below!